Leader: Lawrie Halkett
Right at our back door, the Heaphy Track is one of New Zealand’s nine Great Walks, and like many of the others we have walked over the years, it is packed full of variety with its own individual and unique characteristics.
The motivation for the trip was fuelled by a return visit by one of our earlier International students from Germany.
Starting at the Golden Bay end, it was satisfying to get the unrelenting uphill section out of the way, being reminded of our gain in altitude, not only by the changing flora, but also by the decreasing temperature and the patches of snow and ice .
The recently-opened, new Perry Saddle Hut was a welcome sight with its many design features; double glazing, coal fire, roomy communal kitchen area and three smart bunk rooms. Gone are the platform style beds, in my opinion, no great loss. I never did enjoy snuggling up beside strange men! The solar powered motion sensitive timer-controlled down lights seemed thoroughly luxurious! However, they do have their traps, as we learned from some bikers. They obviously did not get the knack of the coal fire to heat rooms to their liking, so dragged mattresses to sleep around its smouldering warmth, only to be woken by light whenever anyone moved! Were they light sleepers?
Considering the hugely increased building footprint, it is astonishing to know that the bed space has not increased.
As there was a short walk to Saxon Hut we were grateful to have time to linger and loiter on the stunning Gouland Downs area with its wide open spaces and golden hues, the mysteriousness being enhanced by the occasional misty shower.
Saxon Hut was full to overflowing, with our group being the only walkers. However, all were thoroughly amiable, as were the many bikers encountered the following day. It was satisfying to know that there are many, especially young people, having fun and enjoying the wilderness.
A day spent in the pouring rain did not detract from our enjoyment. However, it was unfortunate that this was, for me, also the most difficult part of the track, in sections rutted out running with water. At times there was need for me to be shown where to put each individual foot. That makes for slow progress!
Welcome bush cover sheltered us somewhat as we descended to Lewis Hut along a sometimes muddy track, the mighty size of the trees being admired. Surprisingly, we had Lewis Hut to ourselves, feeling grateful to have a strong son with pack of gourmet food: fresh vegetable curry, pancakes, cheese cake, falafel, Egyptian Kusherie (recipe available on enquiry) and the piece de resistance – Miriam’s chocolate birthday cake, three days carried and secretly completed in a dim hut corner with ganache and glowing candles. To say that she was surprised is somewhat understating the fact!
Sun again as we waded across the Lewis River where the washed-out bridge is soon to be replaced. The rest of the track was a delight as I was able to walk most of the way unaided, a sense of freedom being unencumbered! Additional delights were the enormous Avatar-like rata trees, Nikau palms with the remnants of previous flowering and the blooming grove of kowhai trees causing tui, kereru and bellbird to behave and sound crazy with uninhibited enthusiasm. We wondered if this is how it was in days gone by, being reminded of Captain Cook’s famous comments regarding prolific bird song on his arrival in Ships Cove, in the Marlborough Sounds some 343 years ago.
Lunch was had at Heaphy Hut, where another new hut is under construction, similar to Perry Saddle, considerably larger, picture frame windows, with no greater bed space.
With low tide, enjoyably wandering along the beaches was possible, but not always quicker, as we discovered when a delay in finding the track again meant completing the final stage in the dark. Avid photographers caught splashing waves against a background of sunset. A late evening walk was deemed to be well worth the anxiety of our waiting drivers.
Cameras also captured the image of large powelliphanta and our memories retained the night time call of the kiwi.
Much bridge and track work has been completed during the intervening period since our previous walk here thirteen years ago, the consensus being that it is best approached from the Golden Bay side and that bikers did not detract from our experience, in fact , quite the reverse.
So, we’ve knocked off another Great Walk, our first time walkers even having the certificate (available from DOC) to prove it!
The party included Kaye Halkett (scribe & visually impaired), Brett Halkett (my strong son), Miriam Alphus, Kazu Abe & Lawrie Halkett.