Exploring the Lockett and Peel Ranges 29th Dec - 3rd Jan 2023.
Day 1: Quarry carpark to Lake Lockett
NTC members have explored parts of the Lockett and Peel Ranges on overnight or two-day tramps, but when you look at a map of the Cobb Valley, the immediate thought that occurs is :-“Why not walk down one side and back the other?” i.e. circumnavigate the valley, and avoid all the busy huts! It would be a 4-6 day track, with the option of exiting via the valley floor if the weather broke or people had other commitments. Hence evolved the plan for the NTC New Year Tramp 2022/23 - developed and co-ordinated by Debbie.
Rather than head up the familiar track to Sylvester Hut and the lakes, it was decided to follow what had started as a trapping line from the “Quarry” past the Sylvester Car park. (Approx 1.5km/ 950m asl) and then up Diamond Creek. After a quick lunch, the first walkers headed off, while Graeme and Debbie did a car-shuttle to Trilobite Hut where the return leg would finish.
The start was not well-marked, but there was a clear track that passed a small notice about it not being a DOC track but was developed and maintained by volunteers. From that point on it was indeed very well-marked (equal to or better than DOC) with Red track markers, right through to Lake Lockett and then it’s finish at Diamond Lake. The track roughly followed the 1000m contour around the hillside to Diamond Creek, then closely followed the stream until it climbed steeply (approx. 200m ascent) beside the outlet to Lake Lockett (approx. 1300m).
It was a hot sunny day, and this part of the track was mainly through beech forest providing good shade. Even so, a quick dip in the steam was enjoyed by the NTC ‘Calendar Girls” [Maaike, Jo, Nina, and Debbie] who seem to like to get their clothes off whenever they are near water (which was often!). There was another ‘refresh’ at Lake Lockett where everyone found reasonable campsites sheltered from the wind that had sprung up.
(Just for the record, the Calendar Girls also swam at Diamond lake, Ruby Lake, Fenella Tarn; Cobb Lake, Round Lake, a warm tarn below Mt. Cobb and the last big pool on Cobb River before Trilobite hut. Camp Lake was uninviting and was rejected for swimming. Three more swims to make another calendar!)
Graeme
Distance: approx. 9km, climb: approx. 520m, descent: 100m, time: 4 to 5hrs.
Day 2: Lake Lockett to Ruby Lake
After a windy night’s camping at Lockett Lake, we set off about 9am (after some running repairs to Brian’s pack performed by Maaike). The 45 min walk through to Diamond Lake was reasonably straightforward with track markers indicating the route. The backdrop to beautiful Diamond Lake is the valley leading up towards Ruby Lake. We arrived at the outlet end where there was a fine shingle beach with a few camping spots. It was so inviting, a number of our female members (Graeme called them the ‘The Calendar Girls’), decided that a swim was in order - so the men in the group made themselves scarce!!
Although we were heading for Ruby Lake, the majority of us went up the hill to the left towards the ridgeline above Lake Lille that lead to PT 1631. (Nina walked up the valley to see if it was as boggy as it looked - more from Nina on that later).
There was a reasonably obvious track around the lake through the beech trees to another camping spot closer to the top-end. Where the trees finished, we were confronted with a combination of tall thick flax, spaniards and long grass - the dilemma – up through the trees or up the open, but vegetated hillside? It was decided to climb up the hillside on the true left of the nearby creek. It proved quite challenging. In light of that, the decision was made to cross to the other side of the stream and sidle across to the trees. It was hoped that by walking up the very edge of the forest it would be easier – which it was! We finally gained the ridge line and decided to continue to the top of the ridge rather than head to Iron Hill which had been Plan A. We stopped for a well-deserved lunch stop.
In the meantime, our long-legged track-finder Brian, had galloped ahead through the scrubby stuff and decided to sidle around the 1400m contour to Lake Lille. From there, it was a very steep climb and sidle to the ridgeline below Iron Hill, and a walk back to the rest of the group at PT 1631. Brian was closely watched on his climb above Lake Lille. Once we had regrouped we proceeded on towards Ruby Lake.
From a low point on the ridgeline, Lake Ruby looked quite accessible via a sidle along the 1400 contour above the trees at the outlet end of the lake. Graeme and Sally took this lower route towards the lake. Most of the group continued onto the highest point on the ridge above Ruby Lake before descending. As it turned out, neither route was particularly easy. Both parties were pushing through flax, spaniards and long grass with some difficult steep, rocky terrain to negotiate as well.
Graeme and Sally seem to have the shorter, but possibly steeper descent through this vegetation. Once on the valley floor it was easier walking on the less-vegetated outcrops. G and S went to the East end (outlet) of Ruby Lake to camp where they found that Nina had also arrived. The main party coming from the top took a much longer route and went around the side of Ruby Lake to get to the northern end, accessed by the western perimeter of the lake, where it turned out there was better availability of camping spaces. This spot lent itself to another cooling off in the Lake for the ‘Calendar Girls’. By this time it was about 6pm. Another long day!
Sally
Distance: approx. 7.5km, climb: approx. 520m, descent: approx. 380m, time: 9 hrs.
Day 2: Detour around Lake Lillie
As we were climbing up to Lockett Range from Diamond Lake, I noticed others had fallen behind. Graeme told me they were taking a break. I was ready for one too, so continued on a bit higher and traversed to the upper edge of the bush for the shade. I found a line of cairns and what looked like a potential route down through the forest to the Diamond Lake outlet. After a snack and a drink I did some more exploring. Eventually I saw the others up above me, who were taking a direct route SW up a ridge to point 1631 on Lockett Range, and thence SE to Iron Hill. After establishing contact, I advised my intention to meet them on Iron Hill, but via a traverse to Lake Lillie, and then a climb up Iron Hill’s NE ridge. I called out and waved to another party, below me, who looked like they had come up from Diamond Lake Stream. They waved back. From the crest of the ridge I found I had good mobile phone coverage and took screenshots of the updated weather forecast. I also found on the ridge below me what looked like a beaten trail heading down to Diamond Lake Stream. At this time I realised the others had abandoned Iron Hill, so traversed the head of the cirque above Lake Lillie and re-joined them on point 1631.
Brian
Day 2: Diamond Lake to Ruby Lake (direct route)
While the rest of the group readied themselves to climb ridges and headed for the grand views, I looked up the little valley above Diamond Lake: a very gentle pass, Mt Benson above Ruby Lake not all that far away, no climbing to speak of, I’ll have a lovely relaxing day. Smug.
After a swim halfway around Lake Diamond I came to the flattish area. What could be easier? I fought my way through the tall tussocks to some short grass. Which, of course it wasn’t. I made my way hopping madly from one halfway firm spot to, well, hopefully just a puddle, and was happy to welcome the tall tussocks again.
Maybe on the side will be easier? Slow progress over rocks and past tall flaxes – I got showered with sweet nectar, through shrubs and Matagouri, and Spaniards. What’s a “Spaniard” but a carrot armed with sword and dagger! At the end of the day my legs looked like I had tangoed with a cheese grater.
Once on the pass it was clear I could just stay on the contour line. Unfortunately, through the bush and past limestone cliffs, I have a tendency to climb upwards, so, when I came out above the lake, I looked right onto yet another field of fierce shrubbery!
3pm, a delightful swim in Ruby Lake, much warmer than expected. And the camp site as sweet as Brian remembered from spending time there with his young son.
When I planted the walking pole with a shirt waving from it, I felt like a participant of a Survival reality show, planting the tribe’s totem. Imagine my horror, when most of the tribe turned away, to the other side of the lake! Fortunately Graeme and Sally camped nearby, and in the morning Brian showed us the shortcut over the lake outlet – hurrah for being reunited with the tribe!
Nina
Distance: approx. 4km, climb: approx. 80m, descent: 0m, time: 5hrs.
Day 3: New year’s eve-Ruby Lake to Waingaro track/saddle camp
We woke to a still, misty morning. We left our lovely camp spot at Ruby Lake after Graeme, Sally and Nina had joined us from their campsite at the lake outlet. They were thankful Brian had found a track between the campsites through the beech trees earlier in the morning which meant they didn’t have to walk the long route around the lake edge.
Our first task was to find a way through the trees from the northern campsite to a tongue of grass which led up to the ridge. Once we got to the grass it was a straightforward climb up onto the ridge leading to Mt Benson. Debbie had excellent route tips from Steve’s earlier trip which helped enormously. While the ridge had looked daunting from below, it proved easy walking. We had great views back over Ruby Lake as the mist cleared.
We walked up and over Mt Benson and onto another knoll (pt. 1672) where we had a short snack stop before going down a steepish scree slope onto a saddle.
Sally, Graeme and Brian practically ran down the scree and Sally’s tip of sticking to the deeper parts of scree was a good one. After lunch on the saddle we tackled the next stage. This part involved a short climb up alongside a limestone outcrop, a sidle across the mountainside, then another scramble up a small gut leading back up to the ridge and up & over the last knoll on that part of the ridge. From our lunch spot on the saddle we had anticipated this bit to be more intimidating than it actually was. The sidle track was reasonably clear to follow and Brian did a great job of confidently leading the way.
We continued along the top of the ridge. There were great views across the Cobb Valley to Lake Cobb and our intended route to Camp Lake in a few days’ time. We encountered one tricky bit going through the bush where the track dropped steeply down and around a rocky part of the ridge. Brian had just called a warning to Graeme behind him that it was slippery (on the dracophyllum leaves) when he misjudged a step and slipped, badly wrenching his knee. Brian was still able to walk, albeit carefully, ensuring he didn’t twist his knee. We carried on to the campsite.
At the tarn (our evening water-source) we met Don and Nicola who were going along the Lockett Range the other way and Michele and Pete who had walked in up the Cobb Valley to join us. After filling water bottles at the outlet, we went another 300m to a sheltered grassy valley just below the ridge. Two large stone cairns greeted us and Waingaro Peak loomed large on the skyline. We all loved this campsite. The views from the ridge above us across the mountains in the evening and morning light were stunning. Given it was New Year’s eve we shared some tipples of Port, Drambuie and Green Ginger wine and played cards (Monopoly Deal). No-one stayed up to midnight though!
Brian had decided to carry on to Fenella Hut in the hope of finding someone there who could strap his knee up and advise whether or not he should walk out the next day. Side note – this was the only day we didn’t have a lake or river to swim in!
Jo
Distance: approx. 7km, climb: approx. 570m, descent: approx. 550m, time: approx. 9 hrs.
Day 4: New year’s day-Waingaro track/saddle camp to Lake Cobb camp, via Fenella tarn and Xenacus/Mt Gibbs
On New Year’s Day 2023 we took our time in the morning to break up. Graeme and Sally had decided to accompany Brian back to Nelson (unless he got helicoptered out). We descended down the Waingaro Peak track to Fenella hut in less than an hour, stopping on the way to take fresh water. Brian had fortunately found a trainee doctor at the hut (as he had hoped) who gave him a preliminary diagnosis and taped him up. With the taping and anti-inflammatory drugs, Brian was able to walk out to Trilobite hut together with Graeme and Sally. We were sad to see them go and hoped for the best.
Nina, Debbie, Peter, Michelle, Jo, and Maaike then went for a swim at the Fenella tarn. Nina stayed at the tarn for a leisurely day and then made her way directly to the big tree campsite at the top end of Lake Cobb.
The others walked around Fenella tarn and made their way to where a track led up to the valley behind Mt Xenicus and another down to Lake Cobb. We left our heavy packs there and, with daypacks only, climbed around Xenicus and up the valley to the top of Mt Gibbs. On the way we had a good view of Fenella close by and the dark Dragon’s Teeth looming in the distance.
Mt Gibbs is a bit higher than Xenicus but not as steep, rocky, or generally scary as Xenicus. Brian had also warned us not to try and go from Gibbs to the Xenicus peak on account of a dangerous gut on the way. In any case, after looking at it, none of us was much interested to go anywhere near Xenicus peak – except Michelle, who walked up the ridge a bit.
Mt. Gibbs, and the saddle below its top, gave us spectacular views all around, including Waingaro Peak, Kakapo Peak (and the scree field you have to cross if you go to Lonely lake from Fenella), Mt. Snowdon, Round Lake, and much, much more. We then backtracked, retrieved our packs, and walked to Lake Cobb. On our way there we stopped to admire and photograph a huge mistletoe in full bloom. When we reached Lake Cobb we hastily disrobed and plopped into the water – that is to say, Maaike (yes, me) didn’t plop but walked in and immediately sank to her knees into the sucking mud where she got stuck in a somewhat compromising position and state of undress. Debbie came to the rescue and dug out Maaike’s crocks – but not before she extracted a “tea in bed” promise from her. It wasn’t the best place to bathe but we were refreshed, nevertheless. This was a “two-swim day”.
That night we camped in the tussock under the Big Tree at the upper end of Lake Cobb. The incredible tree houses tame robins and bellbirds, beside our ubiquitous Wekas. There were also Tuis and Moreporks. Nina brought out her double-distilled moonshine and a good time was had by all.
Maaike
Waingaro track/saddle camp to Fenella hut: distance: 1.6km, climb: 50m, descent: 258m, time: approx. 1hr.
Fenella hut to Lake Cobb camp, via Fenella tarn and Xenacus/Mt Gibbs: 8.5km, climb: 725m, descent: 690m, time: approx. 6hrs.
Day 5: Lake Cobb campsite to Camp Lake campsite
After a leisurely departure from Lake Cobb, we climbed the 200m to Round Lake. The opportunity was taken to have a swim before the 200m ascent to the ridgeline and saying goodbye to Nina who returned to Lake Cobb to collect her pack and head down the valley.
Most of the group made a beeline straight up to the ridge behind Round Lake, for fantastic views over Island Lake with the Dragon’s Teeth in the background. Peter had taken a different, and shorter, route to the ridge further round, so had to sunbathe/sunburn until the rest of the party caught up.
We then walked along a wide tussocky shelf for a while before taking another swim in a tarn. It was then that we started taking close notice of the GPX (GPS route) as we sidled across the tussock. We had a tricky section across the top of a ravine, and were relieved when we saw an easier route up than the crazy scramble we had initially identified! From here we did some cairn spotting until we found the descent to Camp Lake which sits in a magnificent rocky bowl with many good camp sites.
Unfortunately the lake was too shallow and full of reeds to be appealing for swimming, so we were glad of our earlier tarn swim. Once again the korimako were amazingly active on the flax plants around our tent. After dinner, and now that everyone knew the rules, a game of Monopoly Deal could be held with all guns blazing.
Michelle & Peter
Distance: approx. 9km, climb: 550m, descent: 650m, time: approx. 8hrs.
Day 6: Camp Lake campsite to Trilobite Hut
When we arrived at Camp Lake the previous evening, we considered the options for the route out to Trilobite hut the next day: The route forward, up the ridge before us coming down the track line to Chaffey Hut: 5.5km, climb 355m and descent 640m vs back up the ridge we had just come down from, and down the trap line to Tent Camp: 3.4km, climb 143m and descent: 485m, with a walk down the valley floor to Chaffey Hut. We agreed that while the route forward looked exciting, the trap line to Tent Camp was the most prudent route after 5 days on the trot without a rest day. This decision was reinforced in the morning when soft gentle rain started to fall at 7am, just in time to disturb the morning tea routine. The clouds shifted and swirled around the mountain tops, covering the ridge completely at times and other times giving us tantalizing partial views of the impressive ridge behind Camp Lake.
Climbing back up some of the way we had come was quick and easy as we already knew the route. We were thankful though for the GPX route on my phone to find the start of the trap line down to Tent Camp. Easy and quick to find when you know where it is, less so when the cloud is down. The route down was well marked, the path well graded and the bush delightful to walk in. It took us 2.5hrs to get to Tent Camp with snack stops and a discussion with a local resident (weka).
The walk down the valley was as beautiful as usual, yellow bulbine and buttercups, manuka bushes in full bloom, purple headed grasses, little white flowers… in a field of waving thigh high grass.
It rained for most of the walk to Chaffey Hut, so instead of having a swim we crammed into the hut for lunch, which included a hot cuppa for some. Delicious. The rain stopped after lunch and it was soon hot enough for the final swim (swim number 9 for some) in the Cobb River 6 minutes’ walk before Trilobite Hut, where Nina was waiting for us. I found the message on my windscreen from Graeme to report all went well with Brain’s walk down the valley.
Reflection: The walk was great. At times harder than I expected due to fighting through the bushy undergrowth. I rated it Medium, but it was probably Medium Fit, and required off-track walking skills. We walked slower than anticipated, usually arriving at camp at 5–6pm, but we didn’t hurry, enjoying the views and swims. It was about the journey rather than the destination.
Would I do it again? YES, but I would walk from Sylvester hut over Iron Hill rather than via Lockett and Diamond Lakes, as the way onto the ridge from Diamond Lake sapped a lot of time and energy. That would also allow for a rest day at Fenella hut. Having a GPX route on a digital map was also comforting and a real time saver.
Debbie
Distance: approx. 9km, climb: 150m, descent: 600m, time: approx. 6.5hrs.
