Leader: Pat Holland
Although the weather forecast was rather mixed, it proved very worthwhile to proceed with the famous round trip. There was rain only at night and some mist and wind in the mornings but the days were generally sunny and bright. Five of us drove on the Friday to Rolling River in good order.
After a car shuffle 3km back down the road to opposite Chummies track, we started the trip. No bridge but the river was low which did not prevent our beloved leader slipping and taking a dip in the first minute! Chummies is an excellent track with a steep start but then works its way up the ridge through some lovely forest (4 hrs).
The exit to John Reid Hut in the high tussock basin involves some sidling which proved unnerving as the track is minimal and the surface was slippery with wet tussock and some snow. So, 1–2 hours later we finally reached the hut and set about hunting for firewood.
There was a strong wind and the open fire proved to an excellent source of smoke to disinfest the hu
At nightfall we were joined by Tom of the Kea Trust who is tracking kea from Kahurangi to Arthurs Pass using high tech RT and camera gear. The kea populations all over the country are in steep decline due to a range of factors and the Trust deserves all the support it can get.
Day 2 began windy and also misty as we ascended 300m to the ridge. There were no poles nor markers but the route along the western ridge was fairly obvious ... up and down with a few steepish pitches that strained the nerves of some.
The sun finally broke through as we neared Patriarch (4.5 hrs) with magnificent views of the Mt Owen massif, the three peaks of Patriarch, and across to Mt Luna. Mike, Pat and David dropped packs and did the scramble up to the summit of Patriarch (1.5 hrs return) before following the others down through the bush to Kiwi Saddle Hut (2 hrs)
On the descent off the peak, figures were seen in the distance dancing along the ridge – three additional members who had chosen to do in one day what the main party had done in two days! This very tired trio joined us at the hut late afternoon; Kate and John tenting, Gina in the last bunk.
Kiwi Saddle Hut is an excellent six-bunker in a more sheltered situation and the fire did not smoke badly. David impressed with wood cutting using his improvised bow saw. Rain and some snow on the tops in the night. On the morning of Day Three we were still head in the clouds. It was decided that packing over the Luna Tops to Stone Hut was too risky and three decided to walk out down valley.
With sun cutting through at 9:30am the remaining five started a day trip to the Luna Tops. The first 300m climb to the bushline is on an excellent track, but then the unmarked route heads up a gnarly ridge above the basins, with one very steep pitch. I was very pleased not to be carrying a full pack!
We chose a less than ideal spot to exit the ridge and took a while to get down into the main basin (no snow; much clinging to tussock and small Dracophyllum). Then a saunter across to the saddle under Mount Luna for lunch (3.5hr). There were good views back east to Patriarch and west down into the Stone headwaters. Travel to the bushline looked straightforward where a marked track descends to the hut.
Mike had no takers for an ascent of Luna (windy, cool and we were tired). So, it was back the way we had come. Regaining the ridge via an easier route, we noted that past the drop to Luna Lake on the south side, a basin opened out which enabled us to avoid the steepest parts of the ridge and regain the track without difficulty (2 hrs return to KS Hut).
At the hut we were joined by three trampers of uncertain age from Christchurch. They had come from John Reid Hut and had found an iceaxe on the ridge. This proved to have slipped off the pack of one of us – a huge relief to person concerned as the iceaxe was borrowed – and lucky because few use that route early in the season.
After a night of rain and some snow, Day Four saw us head down Kiwi Stream in clearing weather. The track is excellent and the bush magnificent so an enjoyable morning.
At the Wangapeka River bridge (2 hrs), Chris and Pat went 30min upstream to visit Cecil King’s old hut (1935), still in excellent condition and just the place for a romantic tryst, if you like rats for company.
The trudge along the main Wangapeka track out to Rolling River (3 hrs) was not tedious due to the ever-changing vistas of river, forest and hills.
The dam creating Lake Wangapeka is gradually being worn down by the river so it is no longer necessary to take the high route.
Coffee with Mike and Heather at Tadmor completed an excellent round trip through wonderful country.
Pat Holland (leader); Andrea Cockerton, Chris Louth, Gina Andrews, John Whibley, Kate Krawcyzk, Mike Drake, and David Wells (visitor).