The group admiring the stalactites
Day 1, written by Peter P
After a car reshuffle at Kath’s place we headed off for morning coffee in Takaka. Onward to walk the Puponga hilltop walk. At the Farewell spit end (by the cattle stop) we split the party into two groups with one car driving to the Wharariki beach end of the track where the second group would emerge later.
Starting from Wharariki beach it was nearing low tide as we headed across the sand dunes and down to the waters edge and the seal pup pool, keeping the recommended 20m away. The pups were present and put on a show chasing one another and constantly propelling themselves completely out of the water. It is such a beautiful beach with its island and coastline formations and the near white sand beach. You can spend all day here but we knew we had to move on.
At the eastern end of the beach we removed our footwear to make the only water crossing of the day. From there it is a lovely meander along the coastline. As we were admiring the Wharariki Ecosanctuary, just prior to Cape farewell, a falcon perched on the fence line and then moved to a track marker post 30m away. We approached and it remained present such that we were able to see it in fine detail within 10m. Wonderful.
At Cape Farewell viewing platform we took in the view of the archway and two adult seals making their way from the rocks to the sea. Just beyond we met the other group and had lunch together finding it difficult to find a place to sit avoiding the sheep poo. Shortly after walking past the Pillar Point lighthouse we came across the brand spanking new predator proof fence across the base of Farewell spit. What an achievement (see more at https://www.naturetrust.nz/).
We then followed the fence back to the roadside. Not 100m before the end we met a member of DOC who advised us the that track from the lighthouse was actually closed but that someone was removing the signs … so we didn’t get a big telling off.
Our group then made our way to our Kaihoka farmhouse stay for the night. Unfortunately our leader had missed an important piece of the information … the house number. After a somewhat confusing conversation with the host we eventually found our way.
Limestone coast at the back of the farm
Once the gear was dropped we did an exploratory walk to the coast but as darkness approached we decided to leave it to another day. Meanwhile the other group, travelling westward on the hilltop walk, spent extended time photographing at Wharariki beach but arrived at the farmhouse and lit the log fire for a cosy evening. Heather and Jess arrived late evening from Nelson to join in tomorrow’s activity.
Day 2 Kaihoka Farm Walks (written by Astrid)
In the morning, we embarked on the farm’s classic: the Mt Lunar loop. Rolling green hills, bizarre limestone formations, windswept trees, views stretching over the coast and to Wharariki beach. Luckily, Mary and Anne had been at the farm there before with the Waimea Club and spotted the hidden entrance to Pluto cave. The cave was a total, unexpected, highlight. Amazing stalactites and -mites. We appreciated being some of the very few visitors to these ancient, unaltered formations. We carried on to the summit of Mt Lunar (239m), then descended on farm tracks towards the coast and looped back to our cars. This involved a bit of bush bashing, wondering and route finding. No tracks on the farm are sign posted. At first, I found that slightly irritating. However, in the end, it added to the fun and the feeling of remoteness. The loop was about 9km and took 4 1/4hrs incl breaks and the cave.
Exploring Pluto cave
Funnily, we actually had a deadline to be off the “mountain” by 1pm: a film crew requested there not to be any humans in sight. They were shooting a children’s movie, by helicopter! Joyce, the farm owner, told us they had also shot scenes for The Hobbit and The Lovely Bones there. I can certainly picture some hobbits running across the rolling green hills there, feet covered in cow patties.
The scenery on the farm is very varied, so most of us we decided to explore a more inland area in the afternoon. Heather and Jess had never been to Wharariki. So, they went there instead, taking Mary and Anne who wanted to go back for the perfect low tide.
Wharariki at low tide
I got permission from the neighbouring farm to cross their land to climb up “Limestonehill Number 1” and then loop back via the Kaihoka Lakes Scenic Reserve. Joyce showed it to us on the google earth printed map. Looked reasonable straight forward. We only had to park at the “locked gate saying “private property” with a Taranaki gate next to it”, cross the paddock, climb the hill, loop back through the valley and past the lakes till we “see the 3 Nikau palms where the cars normally park”. Well…..Farmers’ minds appear to work in different ways! We found plenty of Nikau, but not THE three. We never found any Taranaki gate next to a closed farm gate. We did climb the limestone hill, however, and enjoyed fantastic 360 degree views, not really caring how we had gotten there in the end. It was easy enough to find a way down to the Kaihoka Lakes. Just when we were about to head into the bush, the film helicopter showed up above us. We probably photo bombed their shot, because they came back as soon as we had disappeared into the luscious bush (Nikau – more than 3!) of the scenic reserve. It had been a slightly confusing, but very entertaining and scenic afternoon. About 2 hrs for 4 km. By the time we got back to the cars, it was about 1.5 hrs of daylight left and a very short drive to our homestead.
The group in a secret Nikau grove taken by Mary
At first, only Astrid was keen to rush to the beach for sunset. Luckily, Kathy and Michele suffered from FOMO and joint her on a final 1 hr return walk to the secluded beach where we enjoyed a very peaceful sunset with no one else around. We found an easier way back, taking the gate just after the red shed, instead of the gate just before the shed. We didn’t need to use our torches, as it was easy to follow the farm track in the dim light.
We all happily reunited back at the homestead, had dinner, played games, chatted, laughed. The fire made the living room actually cosy, even though the house is quite rustic. It is large, plenty of space, 6 bedrooms, another lounge and a shower. Luxurious for trampers’ standards!
Day 3 Mt Burnet (written by Anne)
It was chilly and cloudy but no wind. After packing and cleaning the farmhouse, we drove to Collingwood. On our way to Collingwood, one of our members got a text from her nephew so she needed to call emergency to sort it out.
We started walking up to Mt Burnet at 9:20am. It was a 4WD and we gradually ascended. After about an hour, we had morning tea at a junction. A member stayed behind us to get something done, so Peter, Heather and Jess made 2 arrows to guide the way for her which were very cute and helpful. At 11:20 we reached the summit of Mt Burnet and had early lunch, then we returned the same way.
It took us about 3 hours to finish the trip. While we were walking, we didn’t have to pay attention to next step and we wouldn’t get lost because the road was flat and just one way. In the beginning and on the top of the hill, we could see the beautiful views.
After the tramp, we stopped at the Mussel Inn to have lunch or a drink, then headed back to home and finished the wonderful 3 days trip with Astrid.
Climbing Mt Lunar
Participants: Astrid (leader and scribe), Michele, Pete (scribe), Kath, Maaike and visitors Mary, Anne (scribe), Kathy, Heather and Jess.